Determining your skin type

Understanding your skin type is the first step toward effective skincare. Many people struggle with selecting the right products, not realizing that these choices should be tailored to their specific skin type. Misconceptions about one's own skin can lead to choices that exacerbate existing conditions or fail to address key issues.

Let's dive into common skin types and their distinctions

Normal skin: This type is well-balanced, showing neither excess oil nor dryness. It typically exhibits few imperfections, minimal sensitivities, and small, scarcely visible pores. Normal skin maintains its moisture balance effectively without frequent breakouts or irritation.

Oily skin: Characterized by increased sebum production, oily skin appears glossy and is more prone to acne breakouts. It's common for individuals with oily skin to have visibly larger pores, especially in the T-zone area (forehead, nose, and chin). Approximately 85% of people between the ages of 12 and 24 experience acne, which is often associated with oily skin due to the excess sebum that can clog pores.

Dry skin: This skin type produces less sebum, making the skin barrier thin and often feeling tight and appearing flaky. It can look dull due to the accumulation of dead skin cells and is more susceptible to wrinkles and fine lines due to its dryness. Dry skin requires moisturizing products that help prevent moisture loss and maintain hydration.

Combination skin: With combination skin, individuals experience both oily and dry patches on different parts of their face. The T-zone might be oily, while the cheeks are dry. Addressing combination skin involves using skincare products that cater to both oily and dry areas appropriately.

Sensitive skin: Sensitive skin easily reacts to irritants, environmental factors, and allergens, often resulting in redness, itching, burning sensations, or rashes. It's crucial for those with sensitive skin to use hypoallergenic products that minimize irritation.

Mature skin: As skin ages, sebum and collagen production decreases, and it typically loses elasticity and moisture, which leads to increased dryness, thinner skin, and more pronounced lines and wrinkles. The reduction in collagen and elastin, proteins essential for maintaining the skin's elasticity and structure, is a central aspect of skin aging. Skincare for mature skin often includes rich moisturizers, antioxidants, and ingredients that support cell renewal and collagen production. While acne is more common in younger skin, mature skin can experience break-outs for hormonal reasons.

Sub-type: Acne-prone skin. This skin type is highly susceptible to breakouts and requires careful management to clear and prevent acne. Effective treatments often include ingredients such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to help reduce inflammation and keep pores clear. While mostly common among people with oily and combination skin types due to excessive sebum production, dry skin can be prone to acne when skin is irritated or compromised and becomes susceptible to bacterial infections. In normal skin, external factors such as diet, hormones, or incorrect product use can trigger acne.

Finding your skin type

There are two common methods for determining your skin type at home.

Wash and Wait. Begin by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser to remove makeup, oil, and impurities. After washing, do not apply any products. Wait for about 30-minutes to an hour to let your skin return to its natural state—the characteristics it shows can indicate your skin type. If your skin feels tight, it's likely dry. If there's noticeable shine on your forehead and nose, it leans towards oily. If some areas are dry and others are oily, you likely have combination skin. If your skin feels elastic and slightly oil in most areas of your face, your skin learns toward normal.

Blotting Sheet Method. This method helps you identify areas of excess oil production. Take a few sheets of clean blotting paper and press them on different areas of your face, taking note of which area the paper has tested. Hold the paper up to the light to determine the amount of oil visible. If the sheet picks up little to no oil, you likely have dry skin. If the sheet becomes saturated, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin), you have oily or combination skin. This test is particularly useful for those with combination skin to determine which zones need more specific care.

Though both methods give you some insights into your skin type, for best results a comprehensive analysis is highly recommended.

Why you have the skin you do

Factors ranging from genetics to individual life choices, such as diet, location, level of physical activity and sun exposure determine how your skin feels.

Genetics. Your parents may have had acne when they were young or your grandpa suffered from extremely dry skin, and so you may have inherited some of their struggles. Certain skin conditions, such as psoriasis and eczema, have strong genetic links. For instance, if one parent has psoriasis, the likelihood of a child developing it is about 10%, which increases to 50% if both parents have the condition.

Lifestyle. Lifestyle choices such as diet, hydration, and smoking directly affect skin health.

• Diet and Hydration. Poor dietary choices can exacerbate skin issues like acne by perpetuating inflammatory processes and bringing hormones into imbalance. A diet high in sugar and refined carbohydrates can increase the risk of developing acne by up to 30%. Hydration levels crucially impact skin's moisture retention, which means that people who drink enough water are more likely to deliver the needed moisture to their skin unlike those not drinking enough water or preferring diuretic beverages.

• Stress: Elevated stress levels can increase sebum production by up to 22%, which can make skin oilier and exacerbate skin conditions like acne.

Environment. Where you live and spend your days has a direct impact on your skin health.

• UV & Infrared radiation exposure: Prolonged sun exposure and UV exposure indoors, can lead to faster aging and skin cancer. Studies show that 80% of visible facial aging signs such as wrinkles and hyperpigmentation appear because of sun exposure. Infrared radiation can penetrate deep into the skin and degrade collagen and elastin, speeding up aging processes.

• Air pollution: Spending time in traffic and exposure to dusty particles was found to increase age spots on the forehead and cheeks by 20%.

Age. Collagen production decreases approximately 1% per year after the age of 20, which is a key factor in the development of wrinkles and a loss of skin elasticity.

Skin is constantly changing

Skin types can change due to a variety of factors including aging, relocation to different climates, stress, and lifestyle changes. For instance, someone with normal skin might experience dryness if they move to a colder, harsher climate. And, someone with combination skin might find their skin turning oilier with increased stress or hormonal changes.

Monthly monitoring can help you avoid unnecessary products and effects

It's important to monitor your skin type throughout the year to ensure you are using the most suitable skincare products. Dermatologists recommend conducting a skin self-exam monthly to keep track of any changes, including those that could indicate skin cancer.