Read the first 5: what makes a good moisturizer

Have you ever paid $79 for 2 oz of water and glycerin? I bet you have if the first 5 ingredients on the ingredient list of your moisturizer look something like this: Aqua (water), Glycerin, Saccharomyces, Dimethicone, Propanediol.

The first 5 ingredients on the ingredient list typically make up 60-80% of the product. What does it really mean for your skin?

Understanding the Ingredient List

When you browse through the aisle of a high-end skincare store, it's easy to get dazzled by sleek packaging and hefty price tags. However, the real value lies beneath the surface—right there in the ingredient list. If the majority of your moisturizer is composed of water and other fillers, you might be overpaying for minimal benefits.

What Are Fillers?

Fillers are ingredients that provide bulk, texture, and stability to skincare products without delivering significant active benefits. Common fillers include:

• Aqua (Water): The primary solvent in most skincare products, acting as a base for other ingredients.

• Glycerin: A humectant that attracts moisture to the skin, improving hydration.

• Dimethicone: A silicone-based ingredient that creates a smooth, protective barrier on the skin.

• Propanediol: A solvent and humectant that enhances the texture and absorption of the product.

• Saccharomyces: A type of yeast extract that can offer mild antioxidant benefits but is often present in small quantities.

While these ingredients play essential roles in formulation, they don't provide the potent active benefits that justify a premium price tag.

The Hidden Costs of Fillers

1. Dilution of Active Ingredients

When fillers make up the bulk of your moisturizer, the concentration of active ingredients—such as vitamins, antioxidants, and peptides—becomes diluted. This means you're getting less of the beneficial components that truly nourish and protect your skin.

2. Higher Price for Minimal Impact

Fillers are generally inexpensive to produce. Juggling dozens of ingredients may add to the cost, but the major part of the price tag is determined by the hefty marketing spend, branding, and packaging. You're essentially paying a premium for a product that doesn’t offer proportional benefits.

Maximizing Your Skincare Investment

So, how can you ensure you're getting the best value for your money? Here are some strategies to help you make informed decisions:

1. Prioritize active ingredients

If you’re looking for a product that provides a specific benefit or addresses a concern, read up on actives that are proven to work. Find their effective concentrations, and unless an ingredient is known to be effective at concentrations of 1% and below, seek products where your desired ingredient is closer to the top of the list. Here are a few to consider:

• Hyaluronic Acid: For deep hydration and plumping the skin.

• Vitamin C: To brighten the complexion and protect against free radical damage.

• Niacinamide: For reducing inflammation, controlling oil production, and improving skin elasticity.

• Peptides: To support collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

These ingredients offer tangible benefits and are often worth the investment.

2. Read beyond the first five 

While the first five ingredients make up the majority of the product, the remaining 20-40% can also contain essential actives. Know which ingredients are effective in low concentrations and see if they are present in the list of ingredients at all. For example, salicylic acid works in concentrations of 0.5-2%, retinol can be effective even at concentrations of 0.1-0.5%, and hyaluronic acid, known to hold a thousand time its weight in water, can be beneficial even at 0.1-2%.

3. Opt for Minimalist Formulations

Simpler formulations with fewer fillers can be more effective and budget-friendly. Products that minimize unnecessary ingredients often deliver better results, as the active components are less diluted and more potent.

4. Check concentration levels

Some brands provide detailed information about the concentration of their active ingredients directly on packaging. Higher concentrations can mean more effective results. In you’re someone who has a skin sensitivity, explicitly marked concentration levels can help you opt for products that are not only effective but also safe for your sensitive skin.

Making Informed Choices

Navigating the skincare can be overwhelming, the sheer number of available options makes it hard to choose the right one. So, focus on what you know - the ingredients that are known to solve your problem. Identify them on the list. The rest is what we can consider a delivery system, a mix of beneficial oils, butters, humectants, and emollients mixed with texture enhancers and other fillers.

Questions to Ask Yourself:

• Are the active ingredients in effective concentrations? Ensure that the beneficial components are present in amounts that can deliver results.

• Is the price justified by the ingredients? Evaluate whether the product offers value beyond its packaging and branding.

Final thoughts

Next time you're reaching for that $79 moisturizer, take a moment to scrutinize the ingredient list. Recognize that while fillers play a role in creating a stable and pleasant-to-use product, they shouldn't overshadow the active ingredients that truly benefit your skin. Effective skincare isn't about how much you spend—it's about choosing the right ingredients that cater to your skin's unique needs.