Skincare routine 101: Cleanser

There is no debate among dermatologists and estheticians that cleanser is an essential part of any skincare routine. Dermatologists recommend everyone to wash their face at least once per day. 

Why do we need to cleanse?

Apart from obvious benefits of removing dirt, dust particles, makeup, sweat and dead skin cells, cleanser is responsible for preparing the skin of the face for products that follow to enhance their effectiveness.

Which cleanser is the best?

As with everything in skincare, there’s no cleanser that is universally best for everyone. That said, finding a product that works best for you, in your climate and season, can make a world of a difference in your skin’s health. While some of us can get away with just washing their faces with water, others need to be more creative and have a few products readily available for different days of the week.

There are a few major types of skincare formulations to choose from:

1. Water-based cleansers 

Use water as their main dirt-dissolving ingredient and work for most skin types, especially for normal and combination skin types, and people with sensitive skin. They gently remove dirt, impurities, and light makeup without drying out the skin. Folks with sensitive skin should opt for this type of formulation.

Water-based cleansers can be formulated as gels, foams, micellar water, and creams. Certain formulation types may work better for you while others may exacerbate the conditions, so choose your formulation type carefully. Here’s a quick breakdown:

1.1 Gel cleanser

Best for: oily and acne-prone skin. It deeply cleanses and removes excess oil without being too harsh.

Not great for: dry and sensitive skin. Can be drying.

1.2 Foam cleanser

Best for: oily and combination skin. Provides a thorough cleanse and helps unclog pores.

Not great for: dry and sensitive skin. Can be drying.

1.3 Micellar water

Best for: normal and sensitive skin. Gentle, removes makeup, and doesn’t strip the skin of its natural protectors.

Not great for: oily skin and heavy makeup removal. May fail to provide a deep enough clease.

1.4 Cream cleanser

Best for: dry and sensitive skin. Hydrating and soothing, cleanses without stripping moisture.

Not great for: oily skin. May feel too heavy and not provide a deep enough cleanse.

Tips for Using Water-Based Cleansers:

Frequency: Use twice daily, in the morning and evening, for best results. Adjust based on your skin’s needs and response.

Application: Apply to damp skin and gently massage in circular motions to ensure thorough cleansing. Avoid scrubbing too hard to prevent irritation.

Rinsing: Use lukewarm water to rinse off the cleanser completely. Hot water can strip the skin of its natural oils.

Follow-Up: After cleansing, follow with a toner, serum, and moisturizer suited to your skin type to maintain hydration and address specific skin concerns.

2. Oil-based cleansers 

are very effective at breaking down and removing makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum.Oil cleansers are versatile and can be beneficial for all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin. The reason is that oil-based cleansers work on the principle of 'like dissolves like,' meaning the oil in the cleanser helps dissolve the excess oil on your skin, leading to a balanced cleanse without over-drying.

Oil cleansers are particularly beneficial for

• Dry Skin: They help retain moisture and prevent the skin from feeling tight or dry after cleansing.

• Sensitive Skin: Since they are gentle and less likely to contain harsh surfactants, they are suitable for sensitive skin types.

• Combination Skin: They balance the skin by removing excess oil from oily areas while hydrating dry areas.

Oil-based cleansers are often used as the first step in a double cleansing routine, where an oil-based cleanser is used to remove makeup and sunscreen, and a water-based or gel cleanser is used right after to thoroughly cleanse the skin.

While it might seem counterintuitive, oil-based cleansers can be very effective and beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin types, as well as dry and sensitive skin. The key is to choose a product with non-comedogenic oils to avoid clogging pores.

Tips for Using Oil Cleansers:

Application: Apply to dry skin, massaging gently to break down makeup and impurities. Use circular motions to ensure thorough cleansing.

Emulsifying: If using an emulsifying oil cleanser, add a small amount of water to transform the oil into a milky texture before rinsing.

Double Cleansing: Follow with a water-based cleanser to ensure all residues are removed, leaving the skin clean and fresh.

Frequency: Can be used daily, especially as the first step in your evening skincare routine.

3. Clay Cleansers

Clay cleansers are used for deep cleansing and detoxifying the skin. They leverage the absorbent properties of clay to draw out impurities, excess oil, and toxins from the skin, reduce pores, and gently exfoliate, thus smoothing the skin.

Oil cleansers come in different forms, such as masks, foams, or traditional cleansers.

Types of Clay Used:

1. Kaolin Clay: Gentle and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It helps absorb excess oil without over-drying the skin.

2. Bentonite Clay: Highly absorbent and ideal for oily and acne-prone skin. It can help remove toxins and reduce the appearance of pores.

3. French Green Clay: Rich in minerals and excellent for oily and combination skin. It helps to exfoliate and detoxify.

4. Rhassoul Clay: Known for its high mineral content and gentle exfoliation properties, it’s good for normal to oily skin.

Clay cleansers are beneficial for:

Oily Skin: Excellent for controlling oil and preventing breakouts.

Combination Skin: Balances oil production, especially in the T-zone.

Normal Skin: Can be used occasionally for a deep cleanse and to maintain clear skin.

Sensitive Skin: Kaolin clay is a gentler option; however, patch testing is recommended to avoid irritation.

Tips for Using Clay Cleansers:

Frequency: Use 1-3 times per week, depending on your skin type and needs. Overuse can lead to dryness and irritation.

Application: Apply a thin layer to damp skin, avoiding the eye area. Leave it on for a few minutes to let the clay work, then rinse thoroughly with warm water.

Follow-Up: Always follow with a good moisturizer to replenish hydration and maintain the skin’s moisture barrier.

4. Bar Cleansers

Shaped like a bar of soap, these cleansers are solid cleansing products that are formulated with gentle, skin-friendly ingredients and are designed to be less harsh than traditional soap bars. While some opt for bar cleansers only during travel, more and more users are choosing bars over bottles to reduce their plastic consumption. Another benefit that sets bar cleansers apart is their durability, they last a long time.

Types of Bar Cleansers:

1. Syndet Bars: Short for synthetic detergent bars, these are made with mild synthetic surfactants. They are less drying and more pH-balanced compared to traditional soap bars.

2. Glycerin Bars: High in glycerin, which is a humectant that attracts moisture to the skin. These bars are hydrating and less likely to dry out the skin.

3. Cold Process Soap Bars: Traditionally crafted with oils and lye, these bars can be enriched with various nourishing ingredients. They tend to have a higher pH but can be formulated to be gentle on the skin.
   

4. Exfoliating Bars: These contain physical exfoliants like ground oats, seeds, or other particles to provide a gentle scrub while cleansing.
   

Bar cleansers are a great choice for

Dry Skin: Glycerin bars and those enriched with moisturizing ingredients like shea butter or coconut oil are beneficial.

Oily Skin: Syndet bars or those with clay and charcoal can help control excess oil and provide a deep cleanse.

Sensitive Skin: Look for fragrance-free, dye-free, and pH-balanced bars with soothing ingredients like oatmeal or aloe vera.

Combination Skin: Syndet bars or glycerin bars can provide a balanced cleanse without over-drying.

Tips for Using Bar Cleansers:

• Frequency: Use as often as needed, but if you experience dryness or irritation, reduce the frequency or switch to a gentler formulation.

• Application: Lather the bar in your hands or on a washcloth and apply the lather to your skin rather than rubbing the bar directly on your face, which can be too abrasive.

• Storage: Keep your bar cleanser in a dry, well-ventilated area to prevent it from becoming mushy and to prolong its lifespan. Use a soap dish with drainage.
  

5. Powder Cleansers

Powder cleansers are dry, powdered formulations that are activated with water. When mixed with water, they transform into a creamy or foamy consistency, providing a gentle yet effective cleanse. Powder cleansers can be a good choice for travel packing. Additionally, they have a  longer shelf life as they don’t require that many preservatives to keep their water-free formulations safe.

Types of Powder Cleansers:

1. Enzyme Powders: Contain natural enzymes (like papain from papaya or bromelain from pineapple) that gently exfoliate the skin while cleansing.

2. Grain-based Powders: Often made with finely milled grains like rice or oats, which provide a gentle physical exfoliation.

3. Clay-based Powders: Incorporate various types of clay to detoxify and absorb excess oil.

4. Combination Powders: Mix of enzymes, grains, clays, and other beneficial ingredients to offer a multi-functional cleanse.

Here’s how to choose a powder cleanser for your skin type

Normal Skin: Powder cleansers with a balanced formula of enzymes and mild grains can maintain clarity and smoothness.

Oily Skin: Clay-based powders help absorb excess oil and detoxify the skin.

Dry Skin: Look for powders with hydrating ingredients like colloidal oatmeal and avoid those with too much clay.

Sensitive Skin: Enzyme powders can provide gentle exfoliation without irritation. Opt for soothing ingredients like rice powder and avoid harsh grains.

Combination Skin: Combination powders can help balance oil production while providing gentle exfoliation.

Tips for Using Powder Cleansers:

Frequency: Use 2-3 times a week for exfoliating powders, or daily for very gentle formulations. Adjust based on your skin's response.

Mixing: Pour a small amount of powder into your palm and add water drop by drop until you achieve the desired consistency. For a gentler cleanse, use more water; for more exfoliation, use less water.

Application: Gently massage the mixture onto damp skin in circular motions, avoiding the eye area. Rinse thoroughly with warm water.

6. Exfoliating Cleansers

Exfoliating cleansers are formulations that cleanse the skin while also providing exfoliation. They can contain physical exfoliants like beads or scrubs, or chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).

Removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and improving skin texture, they combine the benefits of a cleanser with exfoliating agents, which can be either physical or chemical.

Types of Exfoliating Cleansers:

1. Physical Exfoliating Cleansers: These contain small particles or granules that manually scrub away dead skin cells.

2. Chemical Exfoliating Cleansers: These use acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.

3. Combination Exfoliating Cleansers: These include both physical and chemical exfoliants for a dual-action effect.

What makes them so irresistible:

• Improve Skin Texture: Regular exfoliation helps to smooth the skin’s surface by removing dead skin cells.

• Unclog pores: Helps prevent and treat acne by keeping pores clear.

• Enhanced absorption: Exfoliated skin can better absorb other skincare products like serums and moisturizers.

• Even Skin Tone: Help reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone.

Tips for Using Exfoliating Cleansers:

• Frequency: Use 2-3 times a week to avoid over-exfoliation, which can lead to irritation and increased sensitivity.

• Application: Apply to damp skin and gently massage in circular motions. Avoid the delicate eye area.

• Follow-Up: Always follow with a moisturizer to hydrate and protect the freshly exfoliated skin.

Final thoughts

All-in-all, when choosing a cleanser, focus on your skin type and issues you want the cleanser to address. From there, choose a formulation that is pleasant for you to the touch. After all, cleanser is something you use every day, so you really need to like its texture. And, finally, once you're down to one formulation type, read ingredient lists to weed out potential allergens and irritants. If you're introducing a new product to your routine make sure this is the only new product in your routine, so you can discontinue use in case of reactions. Watch for diet changes, hormonal fluctuations, and stress as all these can alter your skin health.

Happy cleansing, geniuses!