How to start with retinol

As soon as you hit 30, advertisements for retinol skincare start pouring out of all outlets. Retinol is the ultimate wrinkle-fighter, and a go-to active for anyone starting to see their first signs of aging.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, a powerful ingredient widely used in skincare for its ability to promote cell turnover, enhance collagen production, and improve skin texture. It belongs to the broader class of compounds known as retinoids, which include other forms such as retinoic acid (tretinoin), retinaldehyde, and retinyl esters. Though the three are part of the same family, they vary in potency and irritation potential.

Retinoid	Conversion Steps in Skin	Potency	Typical Usage	Side Effects
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)	None	Very High	Prescription, severe acne, anti-aging	High irritation potential
Retinaldehyde	Converts to retinoic acid in one step	High	OTC and prescription, anti-aging, acne	Moderate irritation potential
Retinyl Esters	Converts to retinol, then retinaldehyde, then retinoic acid	Low	OTC, general skincare, mild anti-aging	Low irritation potential

#1 Identify your primary skin concern that Retinol can address

Retinol is primarily used in topical skincare products for its numerous skin benefits, including:

1. Anti-Aging: Reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots by promoting collagen production.

2. Acne Treatment: Prevents clogged pores, reduces breakouts, and helps to clear acne.

3. Hyperpigmentation: Fades dark spots, melasma, and hyperpigmentation by promoting cell turnover.

4. Skin Texture: Improves skin texture and tone, making it smoother and more even.

#2 Decide on a formulation that suits your skin

As with everything in skincare, what works for one person may be irritating to another, so it’s critical to choose a formulation type that is suitable for your skin type, concerns you’re looking to address, and sensitivity levels. 

Formulation Type	Description	Best for Skin Type	Condition it's Best For
Serums	High concentration, penetrates deeply into the skin	Normal, Combination, Oily	Severe acne, photoaging, deep wrinkles
Creams	Combined with moisturizing ingredients to reduce irritation	Sensitive, Dry, Normal	Moderate acne, early signs of aging, skin texture
Lotions	Lighter option that can still deliver effective results	Combination, Oily	Mild anti-aging, skin maintenance
Gels	Light texture, ideal for oily or acne-prone skin	Oily, Acne-Prone	Acne treatment, oily skin control

#3 Avoid spending time in the sun

It’s best to use retinol at night because it can increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, leading to a higher risk of sunburn and damage. Moreover, retinol can degrade when exposed to sunlight, making it less effective.

#4 Check labels for concentration information

How much is too much? Retinol concentrations can vary:

1. Low Strength: 0.01% to 0.03% - Suitable for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

2. Moderate Strength: 0.04% to 0.1% - Effective for most users and provides significant benefits with reduced risk of irritation.

3. High Strength: 0.5% to 1% - Reserved for more experienced users or those with severe skin concerns. High strengths can lead to increased irritation and should be introduced gradually.

“I recommend using a retinol with a concentration of 0.25% to 1%. If you have sensitive skin, the lower concentration the better." - Rebecca Bialas, MD, MPH, co-founder of CLARA Dermatology.

Source: Thinking of Starting Retinol? Here Are 5 Things Dermatologists Want You To Know, Health

#5 Introduce Retinol slowly to avoid skin reactions

Using too much retinol can lead to severe dryness, irritation, redness, and peeling. It’s important to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance. For best results, prepare to adhere to a long-term strategy:

1. Start Slowly: Use a retinol-containing product once a week and slowly increase frequency.

2. Mix with moisturizer: Mix retinol with a moisturizer to dilute its strength. Don’t be afraid to start slow, you’ll work up to it!

3. Buffering: Apply a moisturizer before retinol to reduce dryness and irritation.

4. Avoid Other Actives: When you introduce retinol, stay away from actives like AHAs, BHAs, or vitamin C initially. Check your existing routine for products that are incompatible with retinol or already contact actives that can cause reactions in combined with retinol without building tolerance.

5. Apply to Dry Skin: Ensure your skin is completely dry before applying retinol to reduce the risk of irritation.

#6 Keep in my mind your individual sensitivities

Retinol is simply not great for:

1. Eczema: Retinol can exacerbate dryness and irritation in those with eczema.

2. Rosacea: It may increase redness and irritation.

3. Severely Sensitive Skin: Those with highly sensitive skin might find retinol too irritating.
   

For someone in their teens or someone with sensitive skin, a rule of thumb is to pick the lowest concentration possible, apply at night, buffer and mix.

Final thoughts

Retinol is a highly effective skincare ingredient used for its anti-aging properties, acne treatment, and smoothing out uneven skin texture. It should be used at night, starting with a low concentration. Proper hydration and a cautious approach can help minimize common side effects like redness and irritation. While suitable for most skin types, those with specific conditions such as eczema or rosacea should approach retinol with caution and ideally under professional guidance.If you have sensitive skin, you may still use retinol, though apply a moisturizer before of after a retinol-containing product or mix it with your moisturizer. ‘

And finally, there are three types of retinoids used in skincare. You don’t have to use the most potent one for best results. With such potent actives, less is more.