Incorporating actives

A typical moisturizer contains over15 different types of ingredients, such as emollients, humectants, emulsifiers, pH adjusters, and of course, actives. There are two types of moisturizer formulations:

Active ingredient-containing creams

Such creams contain specific compounds known as active ingredients that have targeted effects on the skin, such as treating acne, reducing wrinkles, or improving hydration. 

Inactive ingredient-containing creams or basic creams

Such creams primarily contain ingredients that provide basic moisturization and protection without any targeted therapeutic action.

When we think of active ingredients in skincare products, ingredients such as Retinol, Salycilic acid, Niacinamides, Hyaluronic acid, etc. come to mind. However, active ingredients are not limited to potent chemical compounds. Such ingredients as green tea extract (protects from environmental damage, is known for its anti-aging properties), chamomile extract (anti-inflammatory, soothing) and rosehip oil (anti-aging, scar reduction properties)l are indeed active ingredients as they provide specific benefits to the skin.

When to incorporate active ingredients into your skincare routine

Like with everything in skincare, it’s highly individual. The types of actives one should incorporate depends on their skin type, age, desired benefits, skin concerns, sensitivities, etc. Here’re some general recommendations:

Actives for different age ranges

Teenagers: Teenagers might start using products with active ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to address acne concerns. Such actives require proper dermatologist or esthetician guidance to avoid overuse and irritation. Sunscreen should be a daily staple to protect skin from UV and UVA ray impact.

20s: is a good time to start incorporating antioxidants like vitamin C in your skincare routine to protect the skin from environmental damage. Sunscreen should be applied to prevent early aging.

30s: introducing anti-aging ingredients like retinol or peptides can help address early signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

40s+: more potent anti-aging actives like higher concentrations of retinol and peptides can help maintain skin elasticity and prevent deeper wrinkles.

Actives for various skin types

• Dry skin: Focus on hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Retinol can also be used but should be followed by a good moisturizer to prevent dryness.

• Oily and acne-prone skin: Salicylic acid and retinol can be beneficial. 

• Normal skin: hyaluronic acid and vitamin C will help maintain a healthy level of hydration and protect from environmental damage.

• Combination skin: hyaluronic acid provides hydration without exacerbating oil production and green tea extract reduces inflammation and provides antioxidant benefits.

Actives to address specific skin concerns

• Acne: Products with salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or niacinamide can be started as soon as acne becomes a concern, regardless of age.

• Hyperpigmentation: Ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and azelaic acid can help lighten dark spots and even out skin tone.

• Aging: Retinol, peptides, and antioxidants are effective in combating signs of aging and can be started in your late 20s to early 30s.

Case study:

Maria is 32. She has dry and sensitive skin and has not used skincare products with potent actives ingredients since when she was 14 and fighting acne. She currently uses a gentle bar cleanser once a day, a chamomile hydrosol and a facial cream that contains Distilled Water, Colloidal Oatmeal, Coffee Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Hazelnut Oil, Rosehip Oil and Cetearyl Alcohol. Which active ingredients should she incorporate and how? 

• Since she’s not using any sunscreen, we would immediately recommend her a physical sunscreen to avoid triggering any reactions in her sensitive skin.

• The cream she uses already contains 2 active ingredients - colloidal oatmeal and rosehip oil, which address her skin’s sensitivity, reduce potential irritations, provide antioxidant protection, and supply vitamins A and C to her skin. 

• Maria’s in her early 30s, and it’s a perfect time to start incorporating retinol into her skincare routine. Since Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, which is already present in Maria’s facial cream, it’s best to incorporate a retinol serum or moisturizer with a lower retinol concentration (0.25-0.5%) and begin by retinol as part of the night routine instead of the cream Maria already uses. 

So, her new routine can look as follows:

Morning Cleanser Floral Hydrosol Moisturizer (Distilled Water, Colloidal Oatmeal, Coffee Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Hazelnut Oil, Rosehip Oil and Cetearyl Alcohol) Sunscreen

Night 1 Cleanser Floral Hydrosol Retinol serum Basic moisturizer (no actives) Night 2 Cleanser Floral Hydrosol Moisturizer (Distilled Water, Colloidal Oatmeal, Coffee Butter, Vegetable Glycerin, Hazelnut Oil, Rosehip Oil and Cetearyl Alcohol)

When introducing new products and actives, less is more. It’s best using high potency actives in lower concentrations to begin with and work up if needed. When introducing a new active ingredient, review your existing routine to ensure there’s no conflict. For instance, both Retinol and Vitamin C are potent and beneficial actives. However, they work best at different pH levels ( Vitamin C works best at a low pH, around 3.5, while Retinol requires a higher pH (around 5.5-6) to be effective). Using both ingredients simultaneously can potentially reduce their efficacy. 

How start weaving actives into your skincare routine

1. Note down your skin type, desired benefits, age, concerns, allergies and sensitivities

2. Identify actives that are know to be beneficial for concerns you’re trying to address

3. Analyze your existing routine for actives that already provide benefits to your skin

4. Analyze existing actives and the ones you want to add for compatibility

5. Built a routine using your existing products as a base and incorporate new products gradually.

Final thoughts: Actives are a way to go if you want to achieve a specific skin result. Introduce them carefully, leveraging the routine that already works for you and maintains your skin health. If your skin is extremely sensitive, try using an active ingredient once a week and slowly increase the frequency to every other night.